A landscape photograph from 1980s Japan, showcasing a city center. People are lounging at an outdoor restaurant, with one man in focus reading a newspaper. Behind them, an outdoor market features vendors selling products, and in the distance, an architectural building is visible.

Japanese Economic Growth and the Boom of the Business

As the Japanese economy surged in the 1980s, Japanese youth became even more interested in fashion. But they grew bored of America and instead came to love design-conscious brands from Europe. This shift toward global diversity and cultural sophistication was not lost on Beams, which opened International Gallery Beams, the ne plus ultra of specialty shops, in 1981. International Gallery Beams offered a selection from the world’s top brands and maisons as well as artworks from up-and-coming artists. At the same time Beams deepened its relationship with high-quality Japanese brands, such as Yoshida Kaban, a bag maker that forced young Japanese fashionistas to rethink their single-minded obsession over imports.

An 1980s advertisement for Yves Saint Laurent perfume. A woman stands on a balcony overlooking the Eiffel Tower in Paris, wearing a black long sleeve coat and hat, holding flowers. The YSL perfume bottle is placed on the balcony ledge.

In 1981 Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto presented their debut collections in Paris, shaking up the world of prêt-à-porter. By the mid-1980s in Japan, the influence of such designers ushered in a craze for so-called Designer and Character (DC) brands. During this period, Tokyo fashion was no longer simply an imitation of styles from overseas; it transformed into something original and uniquely Japanese. During this time, Beams first began collaborating with outside designers on original menswear lines. The company would never again be a simple retailer, as apparel planning and production became a core part of the business.

A Beams collage of items featured in a Japanese magazine, including jackets, t-shirts, socks, sneakers, watches, and more. Japanese subtitles accompany the items.
A photo, dated May 15, 1989, featuring the exterior of a BEAMS store. The image shows two store fronts across two levels, each displaying BEAMS clothing and mannequins. A digital time frame is included in the photo.
A vintage photograph from the 1980s showing the interior of a BEAMS store on the second level. A female and male mannequin are dressed in BEAMS clothing, while a rack to the right displays men's jackets.

During the strong economic growth of the 1980s Bubble Economy, Beams grew by leaps and bounds. In 1984 the company dove into the women’s market with the chic and contemporary Ray Beams line. Next came a wide diversity of women’s labels: the modern and design- conscious Lumiere Beams (currently International Gallery Beams Women’s), the quality- conscious standards brand Lapis Beams (currently Demi-Luxe Beams) and Beams Boy, a womenswear line inspired by casual menswear. In 1985 Beams made its first retail expansion into the Japanese provinces. To keep up with global trends, Beams buyers started regular visits to Europe, culminating in the establishment of offices in London, New York, and Paris. In 1988 the company president Yo Shitara took over management, making the ’80s the decade that laid the core foundation for today’s Beams.

Text: Kaname Murakami / WWD JAPAN, Editor-In-Chief W.DAVID MARX / Author of "Status and Culture" and "Ametora"

A 1989 Fall/Winter advertisement for BEAMS, featuring a background image of jackets laid flat. The text overlay reads: "1989 FALL WINTER CATALOGUE BEAMS."