Director's Voice: SSZ / TADAYUKI KATO

In the world of Japanese fashion, few brands capture the spirit of subculture with the same raw authenticity as SSZ. Born from the pages of a self-published zine documenting surf and skate life, the brand has since evolved into a multidimensional project—part visual diary, part clothing line, part cultural broadcast. At the helm is Tadayuki Kato, whose deeply personal design philosophy weaves his own experiences with the art, music, and people that have shaped him. As SSZ prepares to make its West Coast debut, we spoke with Kato about the brand’s roots, the power of zines, a dream collaboration with Tadanori Yokoo, and why pants might just be the most expressive canvas of all.

A 3D sign reading HESHDAWGZ in orange and black sits on a white table next to framed photographs and colorful artwork.

A man in navy clothes sits on a white cube, smiling and holding a skateboard with colorful artwork in a shop filled with posters, clothing, and skateboard displays.

Can you tell us about the concept behind SSZ?

SSZ began as a zine I created to express the style and culture of surfing and skateboarding. That DIY spirit remains at the brand’s core. From there, it evolved into a way for me to shape the things I’ve experienced—my personal style, the cultures I’ve encountered—into something tangible. SSZ isn’t just about surf or skate; it’s about everything I’ve absorbed—art, music, people, objects, ideas—reimagined through my own lens.

The SSZ zine is quite distinctive. What are some brand-specific details you’re particular about?

SSZ thrives on subtlety—designs that may seem simple at first glance, but reveal thoughtful details and a unique sensibility the more you look. At its core, it’s about expressing my identity—not just through clothing, but through objects and ideas. I want people to feel, “This has Kato’s touch,” whether they’re wearing the clothes or experiencing something I’ve made. That’s why the zine remains an essential part of the brand—it’s where I share the visuals, the words, and the culture that fuels SSZ.

A close-up of a clothing rack displaying a white graphic T-shirt with bold text and illustrations, alongside patterned shirts on hangers in a casual retail setting.

A group of people socialize in a room with a collage-covered wall and clothes hanging. Most are smiling or talking, and the atmosphere appears lively and casual.

This season includes a collaboration with the legendary Tadanori Yokoo. How did that come together, and how is it reflected in the collection?

BEAMS has a wide range of categories, and one of internal brands focused on art recognized my deep appreciation for that world—and my long-standing admiration for Tadanori Yokoo. When I proposed the concept of “a walking Yokoo gallery,” they were immediately on board. My connection goes back to high school—I was in the art club, always drawing, and Yokoo’s collage work left a huge impression on me. That influence led me to start creating collages of my own, which has had a lasting impact on how I approach design.

You’ve collaborated with a diverse group of brands and artists over the years. Any particularly memorable moments you’d like to share?

I’ve been fortunate to work with so many incredible people and brands: Needles, Engineered Garments, Jim Phillips, the C.E. crew, stylist Akio Hasegawa, WTAPS, Alexis Ross, Paulas Walker, Independent, VANS, Yoshida Kaban… I could go on. Honestly, every collaboration is deeply personal—each one stems from something I genuinely love or want to wear myself. That’s what makes every experience unforgettable. It’s hard to single out just one.

A collage of magazine clippings, handwritten notes on yellow paper, illustrations, and photos arranged on a wall, featuring various people, clothing items, and products in a chaotic, creative style.

People gather at an indoor event, some holding drinks and papers. A man in a dark sweater interacts with others near a clothing display, while groups chat in the background. The atmosphere appears lively and social.

A tabletop with zines, notebooks, a yellow notepad covered in stickers, and various printed papers, including one labeled Photo Copys from San Diego by Neil Blender. Background shows wall art and notes.

Two people stand indoors, one holding a skateboard with a worn design. The scene is partially obscured by a glass door, and a poster with faces is visible in the background.

What are your hopes or expectations for SSZ in Los Angeles?

To be honest, SSZ isn’t well known in LA yet. So rather than having expectations, I’m just hoping people will discover us. If we can get people to try it on, to feel it—then we’ve already taken a big step.

Any pieces or items you’d recommend to fans in Los Angeles?

Wait, we have fans in LA? [laughs] First and foremost, I want people to just try SSZ—to put it on and feel what it’s about. Every item reflects something personal, but if I had to choose, it’s definitely the pants . They look simple, but there’s a lot going on—details like pocket placements, subtle design twists. If you wear them with your own set of rules, with your own style, I think you’ll start to see just how addictive they can be. You’ll want to keep coming back to them.

Interview & Text: BEAMS